What is the best routine for acne-prone skin?
Clémence LE SOLLIEC
What is acne?
Acne is an inflammatory disease of the skin, more specifically of the pilosebaceous follicle (the area where the sebaceous gland that secretes sebum is located).
It affects approximately 6 million people in France, primarily adolescents but also some adults.
It is characterized by the presence of acne lesions such as blackheads, papules, pustules, or even nodules and cysts.
There are 2 main types of acne:
- Retentional acne: characterized by oily and shiny skin, enlarged pores, the presence of blackheads (open comedones) or subcutaneous microcysts also called closed comedones.
- Inflammatory acne: which corresponds to an imbalance of the skin microbiota with a more abundant presence of the C. Acnes bacteria in the pilosebaceous follicle. By degrading sebum, C. Acnes secretes a molecule that will cause inflammation. If the inflammation is superficial, papules (red pimples) or pustules (white pimples) appear. When the inflammation is deep, nodules can turn into abscesses or cysts.
Tips for Calming Acne
Cleansing
Regardless of the type of acne, it is recommended to opt for a very gentle and low-detergent cleansing, only in the evening, so as not to unbalance the skin's microbiota.
Favor cleansing milks or oils that will remove impurities and pollution without harming the good bacteria present on the skin. Apply the product by massaging it with your fingertips, then rinse with clear water or with a washcloth/reusable cotton pad.
After cleansing, you can apply a floral water mist to soothe and tighten the skin texture
Should you use scrubs and masks?
In cases of retentional acne, you can use a scrub or a purifying clay mask occasionally (1 to 2 times a month at most).
/!\ When using a clay mask, it is essential to apply it in a thick layer and leave it on for a very short time. The mask must not dry, as this risks dehydrating the skin.
For small pimples, you can leave the mask on locally for at least 15 minutes (or even overnight) to help them dry out faster.
Skincare
It's important to nourish and moisturize your skin! Prioritize non-comedogenic oils.
For retentional acne, hazelnut oil is ideal. Its non-greasy texture regulates sebum secretion and minimizes the appearance of blackheads.
For inflammatory acne, opt for hemp oil. Thanks to its content of Zinc and omega-3, it will help calm inflammation. You can apply it morning and evening. It's also possible, in the morning, to replace hemp oil with hazelnut oil.
Not used to using oil? Click here
Sources:
French Society of Dermatology – Acne: a disease of the pilosebaceous follicle – Dr. Marie-Hélène JEGOU-PENOUIL https://dermato-info.fr/fr/la-peau-des-adultes/l’acné